it’s time to make the donuts

Posted on April 26, 2009 by jentarantino
donuts from scratch?! yes! this may seem like a daunting task, but it is surprisingly easy. with this recipe, you actually make the dough the night before which makes “donuts for breakfast” an easy reality. i didn’t have a donut cutter the first time i made these, so i used a 2″ biscuit cutter and just didn’t have the added joy of donut holes. the second time, i splurged for a donut cutter and made chocolate and raspberry glazes. both ways were fabulous, but i think i actually liked the non-hole donuts better. give it a try!

donuts with orange-cinnamon sugar
makes about 16 donuts

1/2 cup milk
1/3 cup sugar
1 package active dry yeast
1 egg, beaten with a splash of water
2 1/2 to 3 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
4 tablespoons butter, melted
1 quart canola oil

orange-cinnamon sugar

1 cup sugar
the zest from 1 large orange
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
mix all the ingredients in a bowl; large enough to toss the donuts in.


for the donuts:

in a small saucepan, warm the milk slightly with 1 teaspoon sugar. add the yeast and let sit for 5 minutes to proof.
in a small bowl, beat the egg with the water.
in the bowl of a standing mixer whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, and nutmeg. add the proofed yeast mixture, beaten egg mixture, and melted butter. with a dough hook, mix until well-blended and kneaded (this will take about 10 minutes). you may need to add more flour if the dough is too sticky. (the dough should be smooth and elastic, and not too sticky). transfer the dough to a large, oiled mixing bowl. cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight.
on a floured surface, roll the dough out to about 1/4-inch thick and with a 2” biscuit cutter, cut out your donuts. place the cut donuts on a cookie sheet that has been covered in parchment and also oiled. (donuts get very sticky as they rise)
cover the donuts with a clean kitchen towel, and let them rise in a warm spot for about an hour. this may take a little longer depending on the temperature of the room. the donuts should double in size.
heat your oil in a heavy bottomed pan to 375 degrees. gently lower your donuts (i do 4 at a time) into the oil and cook about 3 minutes per side, just until they are golden brown.
with a spider or slotted spoon, remove the donuts and toss them immediately in the orange cinnamon sugar. shake off the excess sugar and move to a serving platter.

my husband woke up to these little beauties on the morning of his birthday. needless to say, the man was happy all day and suddenly, turning another year older didn’t matter as much! there really is nothing like a freshly made donut for breakfast. they don’t taste quite as spectacular the next day, but if you do have any left over, store them in a zip top bag on your kitchen counter.

Posted in desserts | 3 Comments

thin crust pizza

Posted on April 23, 2009 by jentarantino
i grew up in chicago, the land of the deep dish pizza, but my taste has always leaned towards the crispy, charred, thin crust pizza that comes out of a wood burning oven. my fellow chicagoans will probably have me hunted down and “disappeared”, but it is what it is. that is what i crave when i crave pizza. unfortunately, this style of pizza is a little difficult to recreate in the home kitchen. most cooks who attempt it usually use a pizza stone and peel (that big wooden paddle you use to get the pie off the stone), and even then, it never tastes quite the same. i myself do not own a pizza stone or peel, nor do i plan to purchase them. my kitchen is small enough without stuffing the cabinets full of pricey equipment that you only use once in a while. aside from a food processor and a stand mixer, i have pretty basic kitchen tools. i wanted to try to make a thin, crispy pizza without buying any new equipment, so i developed a technique for making the crust that works pretty well. this pizza dough recipe is easy as pie (get it? i couldn’t resist) and can be used for all kinds of different pizzas. for the thin crust pie that i’m craving, it’s all about the rising of the dough.

pizza dough
makes enough for one large sheet pan

1 package active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water
1 teaspoon sugar
3 cups flour
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup warm water (this is added slowly at the end. you may not need the whole cup)

in a small bowl or measuring cup, mix 1/2 cup warm water with the sugar. sprinkle the yeast over the water and stir gently. let the yeast mixture stand for 5 minutes until it starts to bubble slightly. in a food processor, blend the flour and salt. add the olive oil and yeast mixture and mix until coarsely blended. with the food processor running, add the warm water slowly just until the dough forms a ball. (the dough will be very sticky) dump the dough onto a floured surface and knead until the dough is smooth and no longer sticky. form the dough into a ball, place in an oiled bowl, and cover with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel. let the dough rise in a warm spot until doubled in size. this will take 1 to 2 hours.

at this point, you have a wonderful pizza dough recipe that you can use any way you like,(you’re welcome) but if you want the crispy thin crust that i’ve been going on and on about, there are a few more steps and little waiting involved. once the dough has risen and doubled in size, punch the dough down and release all the air. leave it in the oiled bowl and refrigerate it over night. the cold of the fridge will keep the dough from rising too much more resulting in a denser dough. the next day (remember that patience is a virtue) punch the dough down again and, with your fingers, push the dough out into a 1/4 of an inch crust onto a well oiled sheet pan. (really oil the pan well. you want to be able to get your pizza off the pan!)
you can top your pie any way you like. this one has olive oil, salt and pepper, caramelized onions, prosciutto, sliced assiago fresco, and grated parmesan. bake at 425 degrees for about 25 minutes or until the edges are deep golden brown.

this crust bakes up crispy and light and has a wonderful chewy texture. the olive oil in the dough and on the pan really gives this pie a savory, but surprisingly not oily, taste. the only draw back to becoming a pizza making master… ordering delivery is a thing of the past. every time i try, my husband reminds me of how much he loves and would rather have my pizza, that i can’t bring myself to disappoint him. i mean, let’s face it, the man’s got great taste!

Posted in breads, recipes | 8 Comments

soup secrets

Posted on April 15, 2009 by jentarantino
soup is a noble food. this may sound a bit like an “over the top” way to describe such a simple food, but i really believe that soup making is humbling. you chop, you saute, you simmer, you wait. if all the steps are done correctly, the product of your dedication tastes like love. soup is by far my favorite food to cook and serve. i hope that this post inspires you to make soup and love the process of doing just that. i made ham stock* with my leftover easter ham bone, but you can use chicken stock or vegetable stock for this recipe. i am a huge fan of pureed soups so most of my soup recipes are finished this way, but if you are more of a chunky soup person, leave off the last step and eat as is. if you haven’t tried many pureed soups, give it a try. all the ingredients blend in a beautiful way and seem to sing in the same tune, as opposed to just harmonizing.

split pea soup
makes 10 cups

16 oz split peas, sorted and rinsed
2 celery ribs, diced
2 large carrots, diced
1 yellow onion, diced
4 garlic cloves, smashed (no need to chop if you are pureeing this soup)
1 large bay leaf
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
6 cups stock (i used ham stock for this)

in a stock pot over med/high heat, saute the celery, carrots and onions in butter and olive oil. season generously with salt and pepper (it’s really important to season your vegetables early when making soup. if you only season at the end, your soup will just taste saltly as opposed to flavorful). once the onion is translucent (this will take about 5 minutes) add the split peas, garlic and bay leaf and saute for another 5 minutes. add the stock and bring to a simmer. continue to simmer, for about 40 minutes until the vegetables and split peas are soft and all the flavors are melded. remove the bay leaf and blend the soup with a stick blender (you can use a regular blender) until it’s smooth and creamy. check for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. serve hot with a swirl of creme fraiche or sour cream.

this recipe can be the base for all kinds of different vegetable soups. just replace the split peas with another star like cauliflower or broccoli. experiment with different stocks and toppings. fried shallots or croutons are a great addition to smooth soups. soup freezes beautifully as well, so if you made too much, freeze some for later. once you master the art of making great soup, canned soup will be a thing of the past, and that’s exactly where it belongs!

*you can make ham stock using my recipe for chicken stock. just replace the chicken parts with a meaty ham bone. ham stock’s smokey flavor goes wonderfully with split pea, white bean or potato soups. if you don’t have a ham bone, hit up your butcher!

Posted in recipes, soups | 1 Comment

chocolate caramel salted tart

Posted on April 14, 2009 by jentarantino
i am a self proclaimed food magazine junky. i love them. i subscribe to four different titles and pick others up at the grocery store if their covers draw me in. this week it was saveur. the cover had me at “the ultimate chocolate caramel tart”.
unfortunately for me, i had to make this tart twice because the recipe had so many flaws. the caramel temperature was printed as 365 degrees, which is essentially burnt, and the crust had some silly ratios that were completely useless. this is where your good fortune comes in. i rewrote the recipe and the tart is deliciously sinful. i hope you’ll try it my way and forgo the wasted ingredients and the smell of burnt caramel.

chocolate caramel salted tart
serves 8

for the crust:
1 cup flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick unsalted butter, cubed and softened
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla

preheat oven to 350 degrees.
in a food processor, pulse together the flour, cocoa powder and salt until blended. add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles crumbs the size of peas. add the egg yolks and vanilla and pulse just until the dough is well mixed.
transfer dough to a 9″ spring form pan or a fluted tart pan (i did mine in a spring form pan). with your fingers, press dough evenly into the bottom and sides of the pan. refrigerate for 30 minutes. prick the bottom of the tart shell all over with a fork (this is called docking) and bake for 20 minutes. let cool on a rack.

for the caramel:
1 1/2 cups sugar
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons water
1 stick of butter, cubed
5 tablespoons heavy cream

in a saucepan, whisk together the sugar, corn syrup, salt and water. bring to a boil over medium heat, without stirring, until the liquid turns a light amber. this takes about 10 minutes. (you can use a candy thermometer, but you really don’t need to, just stay close to your pot because caramel happens fast) take the pan off the heat and whisk in the butter and cream until well blended (the mixture will bubble up slightly). pour the caramel into the cooled tart shell and let cool down to room temperature. refrigerate until set, about 3 hours. ( at this stage, you can leave the tart in the refrigerator over night and make the ganache in the morning)

for the ganache:
1/2 cup heavy cream
4 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped

bring cream to a boil. in a mixing bowl, pour the hot cream over the chopped chocolate. let sit for a couple of minutes until the chocolate is melted. stir with a spatula until smooth. pour the ganache evenly over the tart and refrigerate until set, about 3 hours. sprinkle with sea salt and serve chilled.

this tart is well worth the many steps it takes to make. if you’ve never made caramel before, this dessert is a great excuse to give it a try. new skills can be so tasty!
Posted in desserts, recipes | 3 Comments

baked potato chips

Posted on April 9, 2009 by jentarantino
about a month ago, my sister, who is the gardener in the family (i, on the other hand, have a black thumb and could kill a plant just by looking at it), gave me quite a bit of rosemary from her yard. not wanting to seem ungrateful, or wasteful for that matter, i tried to use it all. roasted chicken, focaccia bread, pork chops, and roasted potatoes all got sprinkled and slathered with the aromatic herb. i also ended up making rosemary salt* and rosemary/garlic flavored olive oil* which have been sitting in my cupboard ever since.
my little guy was sick this week and that meant that i was trapped indoors while he slept. i hadn’t gone grocery shopping for the week, so my choices were quite limited when it came to cooking or baking. then i spotted the rosemary treats in my cabinet and a couple of potatoes on my counter and my boring afternoon was saved. i had been wanting to try my hand at baking potato chips so here was my chance and here is my recipe…
baked potato chips (makes about 140 chips)

2 russet potatoes, scrubbed clean
2 tablespoons of rosemary/garlic olive oil (you can use plain olive oil)
2 tablespoons of rosemary salt (you can use plain sea salt)

preheat oven to 400 degrees.
using a mandolin, slice your potatoes, skins and all, very thin. in a mixing bowl, toss the slices in the flavored olive oil. lay them flat, in one layer, on cookie sheets covered in parchment paper. sprinkle the slices with the rosemary salt and bake for about 10 minutes or until the edges just start to brown. with tongs, flip the potatoes over, salt again, and bake for an additional 10 minutes or until the chips are golden brown. transfer to a plate and enjoy. you can store the chips in a zip top bag for up to a week, but i don’t think they’ll last that long.

the herbed oil and salt really add a depth of flavor to these chips. experiment with flavors of your own. perhaps some lime salt and lime olive oil would be more to your liking. or truffle oil and truffle salt to make an elevated chip as a cocktail party appetizer. i could go on and on!

*to make the rosemary/garlic oil: in a clean bottle, pour extra virgin olive oil over 2 large rosemary stalks and 4 cloves of raw, peeled garlic. cork it and keep it in your cupboard for about 1 month so the flavors can meld. store it in a cool dry place for up to 4 months.
rosemary salt: in a food processor, pulse 1/4 cup kosher salt with 2 tablespoons of fresh rosemary. blend until the rosemary is chopped very small and blended completely with the salt. store in an airtight container for up to 4 months.

Posted in recipes, side dishes, vegetables | 4 Comments

brownies from a bowl, not a box

Posted on April 4, 2009 by jentarantino

it’s so easy to fall back on boxed brownie mix when we really want a brownie. it’s easy, you only need a few ingredients, and they always come out the same. well, now you will have a “go to” recipe for brownies in your arsenal and hopefully, you won’t need that box mix crutch any more. give this recipe a try and ween yourself off of all those nasty chemicals and additives they put in those mixes. plus, they’re delectable!

brownies (makes 12)

2 sticks butter, melted and cooled slightly
2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla
4 eggs, beaten
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa (use the good stuff)
1 tablespoon instant espresso or coffee powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 bag of semi-sweet chocolate chips

preheat oven to 350 degrees. grease a 13 by 9-inch pan. in a mixing bowl, whisk together the butter, sugar, vanilla and eggs. stir in the flour, cocoa, coffee and salt. mix until well combined (don’t over mix though or you’ll get a tough brownie). add the chocolate chips and pour into the prepared pan. bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until set (the top should be dry to the touch). cool and cut into 12 squares.

you can put your own twist on this recipe by adding nuts or dried cherries or anything you think would be delicious. i’m a purest when it comes to brownies so, to me, these are perfect as is. i hope these satiate your chocolate needs and keep you off the box stuff. really, you don’t need it anymore!
Posted in desserts, recipes | 8 Comments

chicken pot pie

Posted on April 2, 2009 by jentarantino
my next “ode to chicken stock” recipe is the humble chicken pot pie. before i started making these my own way, i tried a lot of different recipes. they all seemed to have one thing in common…time consuming steps and lots of them. my recipe cuts through all the hassle with all of the rewards of a homemade pot pie. you don’t have to make your own pastry dough, but i encourage you to at least give my recipe a try. it’s easy peasy and you can’t beat the taste of “homemade”. i have a feeling that once you try it, you’ll be using your new knack for making perfect pastry dough all the time. whenever i make my pot pies, i always make an extra to freeze. they keep for about 3 months, but i don’t think you’ll wait that long to pop it in the oven on a busy night. tonight, i’m making 2 individual sized pies for the husband and i to eat for dinner and one 1-1/2 quart casserole for later this month.

chicken pot pie (makes 4 individual casseroles)

1 stick unsalted butter
4 celery ribs, diced
4 carrots, diced
1 small onion, diced
1/2 cup flour
4 cups chicken stock (keep warm on the stove)
2 potatoes, peeled and diced
2 roasted chicken breasts, cubed*
5 oz frozen peas (half bag)
3 tablespoons chopped italian parsley
egg wash (one egg beaten with a little water)
salt and pepper

preheat oven to 375 degrees. melt the butter in a large, heavy bottomed sauce pan. on med-high, saute the celery, carrots and onions in the butter just until the onion is soft. season with salt and pepper. add the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until well combined. cook, stirring occasionally, until the roux smells nutty and the flour taste is gone. this will take about 5 to 7 minutes. add the warm chicken stock and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened. add the potatoes and simmer on med-low for about 10 minutes, just until the potatoes start to get tender. check the seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. take off heat and add the cooked chicken, peas, and chopped parsley. ladle the filling into 4 individual casserole dishes and let cool. cover each casserole with the rolled pastry and crimp the edges with your fingers to make a nice crust. (there is no need to glue the dough to the sides of your casserole with egg wash. i find that the crust is too hard to break off if you do this.) brush the tops with egg wash, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cut 3 small slits to let steam escape while baking. place casseroles on a baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. (if you are freezing the pot pies, don’t bake first. wrap them in several layers of plastic wrap and freeze them for up to 3 months).

*i cook my chicken breasts on the bone, rubbed with olive oil and sprinkled with fresh rosemary and salt and pepper in a 375 degree oven for 30 minutes. you can do this a day ahead or use a store bought rotisserie chicken.

pastry dough (makes enough for four 9 inch pie shells)

1 stick of ice-cold butter, cubed
1/2 cup vegetable shortening
1 teaspoon kosher salt
(to make this pastry for desserts, add 1 tablespoon of sugar)
3 cups all purpose flour
ice water

in a food processor, pulse the butter, shortening, salt and flour until it is coarsely blended. with the food processor running, pour in the ice water just until the dough forms itself into a ball. wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for at least 1/2 hour. you can make this dough the night before or freeze it for up to 3 months.

when these pot pies come out of the oven, it will take all of your self-control to wait for them to cool down a bit before digging in. and even better than the way they taste is the knowledge that there is one waiting for you in the freezer! happy eating.

Posted in meat dishes, poultry, recipes | 2 Comments

dumplings for dinner

Posted on March 31, 2009 by jentarantino
since i made chicken stock this week, i thought i’d do a couple of posts highlighting chicken stock as a main ingredient. these dumplings are served swimming in a bath of reduced chicken stock and fresh parsley. i made the filling with chicken thighs, but you can make it with leftover steak, pork, or even pot roast. this recipe is courtesy of my lithuanian side (i’m italian too) and is meant to use up leftover meat and turn it into a new dish. trust me, nobody will know this is leftovers! the dumplings are so comforting and tasty that leftovers are the last thing that come to mind! lucky for you, this recipe makes 60 dumplings, so you can eat some tonight and freeze the rest for another time. cooking once and eating twice or three times is a great thing to master. stick with me and i’ll show you how…

lithuanian meat dumplings
makes 60 (i serve around ten dumplings per person)

for filling:
1/2 lb to lb of cooked, dark meat chicken (or whatever leftover meat you want to use)
1 egg, beaten
1 small onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

saute the onion and garlic in the olive oil just until soft. in a food processor, grind the meat with the sauteed onion and garlic, egg, parsley and salt and pepper.

for dumpling dough:
1 cup warm water
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 1/2 to 4 cups of flour

in a mixing bowl, whisk together the water, oil, eggs and salt. add the flour and mix with a wooden spoon until combined. the dough should be soft and easy to roll, but not sticky. roll out the dough on a floured board to about 1/8 inch thick and cut into circles using a 2″ biscuit or cookie cutter. place a teaspoon amount of the filling in the middle of each circle. brush the edges with water and seal by squeezing the edges together with your fingers. (you can use a fork to seal your dumplings, but i like the way these look a little better). freeze your dumplings on parchment lined sheet pans and then transfer to freezer bags.

dumplings in sauce (makes 2 servings)

3 cups of chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
salt and pepper
20 meat dumplings (you can boil them right from the freezer. no need to defrost)

in a large skillet over high heat, reduce 3 cups of chicken stock down to about half it’s original volume. this will take about 20 minutes. when the stock is reduced, it will be thickened and slightly syrupy. add the chopped parsley and salt and pepper to taste.
while your stock is reducing, boil water with a little salt in your favorite pasta pot. when the water boils, drop in your dumplings and cook until they start to float. transfer with a slotted spoon to the skillet containing the sauce and toss to coat the dumplings. eat!
this recipe may seem a tad bit time consuming, but if you make the dumplings on a day when you have a little extra time, you can raid your freezer on another day and have dinner on the table in 20 minutes. give it a try. when you taste the dumplings, you’ll be glad you did!
Posted in meat dishes, pasta, recipes | 11 Comments

chicken stock

Posted on March 27, 2009 by jentarantino
so, if you have been following my blog, you’ve probably figured out by now that i like to make things myself. it’s satisfying, it teaches me patience, and it usually saves money. chicken stock is one of those products that is easy to make yourself and it’s such a versatile ingredient to have on hand. having a few quarts of chicken stock in your freezer is like a having a little culinary pot of gold. you can make soups and sauces and even homemade pot pies. it’s super easy and cheap to make. i’ll show you how…

chicken stock (makes about 3 quarts)

5 lbs of chicken parts*, cut in half to expose the marrow
1 large onion, peeled and cut in chunks
4 carrots, washed and cut in chunks
4 ribs celery, washed and cut in chunks
10 garlic cloves, peeled
2 bay leaves
about 10 sprigs fresh thyme
about 10 sprigs fresh parsley with stems
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 tablespoons kosher salt
about 2 gallons cold water

saute all the vegetables and herbs in a large stockpot in about 2 tablespoons of olive oil for about 5 minutes. add the chicken parts and continue to saute for 5 more minutes. cover with the cold water and cook on high heat until you begin to see bubbles break through the surface of the liquid. turn heat down to medium-low so that stock maintains a low, gentle simmer. skim the scum from the stock with a spoon every 15 minutes for the first hour of cooking. simmer uncovered for 4 to 6 hours.
strain stock through a fine mesh strainer, lined with cheese cloth, into another large stockpot or heatproof container, discarding the solids. at this point, you can put the stock in quart sized containers and cool. it will keep in the fridge for 3 days or in the freezer for 3 months. all the fat will rise to the top when the stock is cooled. you can discard it or use it like butter to roast potatoes or other veggies.

*my favorite parts to use for stock are chicken backs, necks and wing tips. you can get them from your butcher or save them from whole chickens that you cut up yourself. if you choose to use a carcass from a previously roasted chicken, your stock will not be as rich or flavorful as stock made from raw chicken parts.

now you know how to make one of my favorite culinary treasures. my next 2 posts will showcase chicken stock in all its delicious glory!

Posted in recipes, soups | 6 Comments

green olives in my cupboard

Posted on March 24, 2009 by jentarantino
in lieu of making sad, uninspired dishes because grocery prices have gone through the roof, i’m trying to tap into my “inner italian” and make simple pasta dishes that pack a wallop with taste but use ingredients i already have on hand. that being said, i’m a green olive fanatic, so i always have them in my cupboard or fridge. i did a little searching online for green olive pasta recipes. a version of the recipe that follows kept popping up on spanish and italian sites. i would have never thought to put green olives and cream together, but it is a truly inspired combination. the cream mellows out the olives in just the right way and the garlic is a perfect marriage for their salty goodness. plus, the whole dish takes about 15 minutes to make! here is my recipe…

spaghetti with green olive sauce (makes 2 servings)

4 ounces of pitted and chopped spanish green olives (manzanilla work well for this)
6 cloves of chopped garlic
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 cup half & half or heavy cream (use what you have)
thin spaghetti (enough for 2)
2 tablespoons grated parmesan
1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon italian parsley, coarsely chopped

while your pasta is cooking (i’m going to assume that you know how to make pasta), saute the olives and garlic in the olive oil just until they are soft. (don’t brown the garlic or it will get bitter). add the cream and reduce until it’s rich and creamy. add the parmesan cheese and pepper to the cream mixture and toss with your drained, al dente spaghetti. add the parsley and serve immediately. you don’t need to add any salt to this dish. the olives are salty enough to flavor the sauce.

this recipe is as delicious as it is easy. i hope it inspires you to cook from your cupboard and forgo the trip to the grocery store. it’s scary at the grocery store!
Posted in pasta, recipes | 5 Comments